May 22, 2008

May 11' 2008

Gresik Surowiti

One of the route in Gresik
Nikon D70

There are approximately twenty routes in Surowiti now. Most are long sport routes, but two require traditional gear. All routes have two bolt belays with chains for lowering off.
The Overlook Wall is the first section of cliff that was developed. From the parking area, take the steps uphill for about 25 meters. Turn Right on a small path and follow the sometimes overgrown trail to the cliff. Routes are listed left to right.
Ernita 5.9 Follow bolt up the ramp to a corner.

Sleme's Breakfast 5.11 Clip the first three bolt of Ernita and shoot straight up through the steep stuff.

Welcome to Indonesia 5.11Scamble onto the chossy ledge and climb the steep face to a small roof near the top.

The Underling 5.11 Climb past a small roof to a steep face. Under-cling the upper dihedral nd pull the lip on small holds. Continue straight up to the belay.

Bat Crack 5.9+ Climb the left facing corner to a small cave. Watch for bats and birds. Jam the crack past the cave and step left to some face moves that lead to the same belay as "The Underling".

Afternoon Shade Wall was the second wall to be developed and has two distinct walls. The routes are listed from right to left. Add walking direction here
Anas 5.9/5.10 Height dependent Climb a small right facing corner to a budge near the top.

Ernita climb Anas Route W/ Nikon D70

Ant Killer 5.8 (Trad two bolt belay) The big obvious corner.

Double V 5.11 Two small dihedral stacked on top of one another.

Big Mac 5.11+ maybe 5.12- Climb the start of Breadfruit and step right at the fourth bolt. CLimb the slightly overhanging face on slopper, jams, and edges to a two bolt belay.

Bread Fruit 5.10 mostly with a 5.11 start. Climb small but good pockets off the good and follow the well feature overhanging face above.

Eman Climb Bread Fruit Route Nikon D70

Made In the Shade 5.11 with multiple cruxes. all shallow pocket to a crack. Jam the crack to more face climbing. Veer left to a left facing dihedral and the belay ledge. Crux is near the top.

Jimmie's Corner 5.9 (Trad with two bolts and a two bolt belay. Climb the obvious left facing corner past a bolt. Undercling the roof on gear and climb the corner above to the ledge and belay.

Ernita Climb Jimmie's Corner w/ Nikon D70

The Shock and Fear Wall is just being developed. To access this wall, follow the path past the hill and scramble to ledge above.

Seven month since my first to climb. In Gresik, I’ve Climb: Ernita, Sleme’s Breakfast, Anas, Ant Killer, Double V, Big Mac, Bread Fruit, Jimmie’s Corner, and another some new routes.

Last weekend was the first time I climbed four routes in one day.
Double V, Jimmie’s Corner, Ant Killer and Anas.
Double V: Is crack climbing and not my style. I only finished half before I decided to go down. It's still hard for me.
Jimmie’s Corner: Kind of easy route for me, and FUN!
Ant Killer: Its Corner like Jimmie’s Corner But a little bit harder. FUN also!
Anas : easy and fun route.

For me, Climbing in Gresik it’s much fun then the wall climbing. A couple of times a week I go to Phyxius Climbing Gym. It’s a nice gym but I feel little bit bored climbing indoors.

Sometimes I go to the biggest climbing wall at Surabaya. (its for the national athlete practice). The wall overhangs for 20 meters and this is good for my endurance.

I always keep in mind that Climbing gyms are for training and I stronger if I use the climbing gym regularly. Right now, I need to get stronger for my climbing trip to California, USA.
It’s a fun time climbing at Gresik, but it will be nice when we have other areas nearby too.

The last four or five times, my cute dog went with us. And that’s the first time I saw him eating leaves!!!!

Jimmie My Cute Dog w/ Nikon D70

When I take a walk for a while he barks, and then when I climb, he will just wait until I come down.

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